The Montreal-style bagel is a culinary icon, a delicacy that has become synonymous with the vibrant food scene of Canada’s second-largest city. Unlike its New York counterpart, the Montreal bagel boasts a distinct texture, preparation process, and taste that make it truly unique. Hand-rolled, boiled in honey-infused water, and baked in wood-fired ovens, this bagel has captivated the hearts and taste buds of food lovers across the world.
In this article, we will explore the history of the Montreal-style bagel, what makes it unique, the cultural significance it holds in Montreal, and why it continues to thrive despite competition from other styles. Additionally, we will discuss how it is made, its variations, and where to find the best Montreal bagels today.
The History of the Montreal-Style Bagel
Jewish Immigration and the Rise of the Bagel
The story of the Montreal-style bagel begins with Jewish immigrants who arrived in Canada in the early 20th century. These immigrants, primarily from Eastern Europe, brought with them their rich culinary traditions, including the art of bagel-making.
The first known Jewish bakery to introduce bagels to Montreal is believed to have been founded in the 1910s. Over time, these bagels evolved to have distinct characteristics that set them apart from traditional bagels found in Poland or Russia. By the mid-20th century, the Montreal-style bagel had become a staple in the city’s Jewish community and, eventually, a beloved food for all Montrealers.
The Rivalry: Fairmount vs. St-Viateur
Two bakeries dominate the Montreal bagel scene: Fairmount Bagel and St-Viateur Bagel. These two institutions have been at the heart of the Montreal bagel tradition for decades, each boasting a loyal customer base.
- Fairmount Bagel was founded in 1919 by Isadore Shlafman, and it is considered the first bagel bakery in Montreal. It remains family-owned and continues to produce bagels using time-honored methods.
- St-Viateur Bagel was established in 1957 by Myer Lewkowicz. It quickly became a fierce competitor to Fairmount and is now one of the most recognizable bagel brands in Montreal.
Both bakeries adhere to traditional methods of making Montreal-style bagels, ensuring the product retains its authenticity and reputation.
What Makes the Montreal-Style Bagel Unique?
Ingredients and Flavor Profile
The Montreal bagel differs significantly from its New York counterpart in several ways:
- Dough Composition – Montreal-style bagels are made with fewer ingredients than New York bagels. They typically contain flour, malt, eggs, water, yeast, and sugar, but no salt, which contributes to a sweeter flavor.
- Boiling Process – Unlike New York bagels, which are boiled in plain water, Montreal bagels are boiled in water with honey, adding a subtle sweetness.
- Wood-Fired Baking – Perhaps the most defining feature of the Montreal bagel is its baking method. These bagels are baked in wood-fired ovens, which gives them a slightly smoky, crispy crust.
- Size and Texture – Montreal bagels are smaller, denser, and have a larger hole in the middle than New York bagels. They also have a chewy texture rather than a fluffy one.
- Toppings – Traditional Montreal bagels come in two main varieties: sesame seed and poppy seed. While other flavors exist, these remain the most iconic.
The Cultural Significance of the Montreal Bagel
A Symbol of Montreal’s Culinary Identity
Montreal has long been regarded as one of the world’s top food cities, and the Montreal-style bagel plays a significant role in that reputation. Tourists and locals alike flock to famous bagel shops to taste this delicacy, often forming long lines outside the bakeries.
A Connection to Jewish Heritage
Although now enjoyed by people of all backgrounds, the Montreal bagel remains deeply connected to the city’s Jewish history. It serves as a reminder of the resilience and contributions of Jewish immigrants who shaped Montreal’s food scene.
A Source of Civic Pride
Montrealers take immense pride in their bagels, often engaging in friendly debates with New Yorkers over which style is superior. This civic pride extends beyond the city, as Montreal-style bagels have gained popularity in cities across North America.
The Montreal-Style Bagel vs. The New York Bagel
While both bagel styles have passionate followers, the differences between them are stark:
| Feature | Montreal-Style Bagel | New York-Style Bagel |
|---|---|---|
| Size | Smaller, with a larger hole | Larger, with a smaller hole |
| Texture | Dense, chewy | Fluffy, airy |
| Boiling | Boiled in honey water | Boiled in plain water with malt |
| Baking | Wood-fired oven | Steamed or baked in gas ovens |
| Taste | Slightly sweet | More neutral, sometimes salty |
| Toppings | Sesame, poppy seed most common | Many flavors and toppings available |
While preference is subjective, Montreal-style bagels are generally considered more traditional and artisanally crafted compared to the mass-produced, often commercially available New York bagels.
How Are Montreal-Style Bagels Made?
Making Montreal-style bagels is a labor-intensive process that requires skill and precision. Here is a step-by-step breakdown:
- Mixing the Dough – Flour, eggs, sugar, yeast, and malt are mixed together to form a dense dough.
- Hand-Rolling – Unlike machine-made bagels, Montreal bagels are hand-rolled into a thin rope and then formed into circles.
- Boiling in Honey Water – The raw bagels are dropped into a boiling mixture of water and honey, which helps create their distinct chewy texture.
- Seed Coating – The boiled bagels are then coated in sesame or poppy seeds.
- Baking in a Wood-Fired Oven – Finally, the bagels are baked in a traditional wood-fired oven at high temperatures until golden brown.
Where to Find the Best Montreal-Style Bagels
While Montreal has no shortage of great bagel shops, a few locations stand out as must-visit places for an authentic experience:
1. Fairmount Bagel
- Address: 74 Avenue Fairmount Ouest, Montreal, QC
- Open since 1919, Fairmount Bagel is one of the original Montreal bagel makers. Their hand-rolled, wood-fired bagels have a loyal following.
2. St-Viateur Bagel
- Address: 263 Rue Saint Viateur Ouest, Montreal, QC
- St-Viateur Bagel has been serving up fresh bagels since 1957 and is known for its consistently high quality.
3. Bagel St-Lo
- Address: 7659 Rue Saint-Denis, Montreal, QC
- A modern take on Montreal-style bagels, this bakery offers unique flavors while still honoring traditional methods.
4. Real Bagel
- Address: 4515 Chemin de la Côte-des-Neiges, Montreal, QC
- Known for their fresh and authentic Montreal-style bagels with a wide selection of toppings.
Conclusion
The Montreal-style bagel is more than just a food item; it is a piece of history, a symbol of cultural heritage, and an enduring part of Montreal’s identity. Its hand-crafted nature, wood-fired baking process, and unique flavor set it apart from all other bagels in the world. Whether you are a local or a visitor, biting into a fresh Montreal-style bagel is an experience that connects you to the heart and soul of the city.
So the next time you find yourself in Montreal, make sure to visit one of its legendary bagel shops. And if you’re not in Montreal? Many bakeries across North America now offer Montreal-style bagels, or better yet—you can try making them yourself!
Would you choose a Montreal bagel over a New York bagel? The debate continues!
